Senin, 08 Mei 2017

Home Remedies To Stop Cats From Scratching Furniture

Home Remedies To Stop Cats From Scratching Furniture

time for another tear. this area of the leather is really badly worn, so it's a great spot to demonstrate. i'm going to make this kind of a gnarly one, and i'm going to cut away a little extra, make it a bigger, more substantial hole that needs to be fixed. first step: cut yourself subpatch. i've got my levi patch here and need tomake it bigger than the hole. i'll start from this piece actually, just chop off a piece. this fold can make it more difficult towork with sometimes, but i'm not worried about it.

round the edges for easierinsertion. grab some tweezers. work it in. this is an easy hole to work with, because it's so big. sometimes, you know, you have to take a lot more time to really work it in to a thinner tear or a smaller hole. and then comearound, and make sure that it's seated completely flat all around the perimeterbefore gluing it down. i'm going to be using 3m's plasticand emblem adhesive, but you could probably would have aneasier time finding loctite's vinyl, fabric, and plastic adhesive at most hardwarestores.

that adhesive is runnier, a little more difficult to work with than the 3mâ® that i'm using, and what irecommend in that instance is to you get yourselfa piece of cardboard, or you know, something to work with, and put a blob onthere for easy working, and grab yourself a needle or a toothpick. this is such a big tear, i could even work with a palette knife, and apply the glue around the perimeter of the leather and tack itdown to this patch. the key always, remember to use aflexible glue, not a rigid glue like super glue.

we need this to be flexible and moveover the substrate independently. alright, so i'm pretty happy with that. gently press it down, and then if youwant you can even use a hair dryer to help tack up the glue. pull it up a little can even just blow in there. it doesn't take much. and then i get onit lickety-split with a board or a book and give it some firm pressure. you want to let the glue completely dryand cure before proceeding with your repair. so i'm going to do that walk away for afew minutes. so when you're glue is dry, you want to clean your surface before doing a repair compound, and if you

didn't get any excess glue around theperimeter you can work with just a water- based cleaner like the fliteâ® that wesell or 409â®. if you got a little messy with the glueor you feel like you need to de-wax the leather a little bit, you can work with a solvent like denatured alcohol. i'm actually working with lacquer thinner,but denatured alcohol is what we recommend. just a quick swipe; get off any armorallâ®, any slime. allow it to evaporate. try not to huff the rag when you're done. for a really large tear like this that requires flexibility you want a repaircompound, not the "sandpaper super glue" method

that we've demonstrated in othervideos, which is more rigid and only suited to more superficial damage likethin lines or cracks and cat scratch damage. so we really like adv leather's fc1soft filler, because it is really strong and flexible, it sands really nicely, it's non-toxic, water-based... what else? it feathers and blends really nicely. you'll see that it's this creamy goo. throw a blob in there. really work it into these edges, theperimeter of the tear, in case you missed any spots with your glue. the compoundwill sort of act also as an adhesive.

and close this up immediately; it does tend to cure, air cure, very quickly. you don't want it to spoil. and i like to work with a glossy business card for for spreading, and just do one swipe in the direction of the tear. you're not going to get it perfect thefirst time. i've got some little craters of the moon up there. that's okay. i''m going to feather out these edges just along the perimeter. you could also sand them out later, but this compound feathers really beautifully. and allow to air cure. this is going to take anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes.

it can be accelerated with anincandescent bulb. you could also use a hair dryer if you wanted to, but you wantto be sure to hold it so that the air is blowing across it rather than thanpointing inward, because that will push any moisture into the repair, and it willtend to shrink over time, so i go with the incandescent bulb or good old sunshine. so when the compound is clear, has become more translucent, and when you sort of press on it, doesn't feel squishy at all, it feels solid, that means it's cured, and you're ready to proceed with either more layers or dyeing. this took longer to cure that i thoughtit would. it's a cold winter's day here in our studio and even with a light bulbon it,

it took about three or four hours, so ifin doubt, just walk away, come back. so it does feel, i've got a little ridgehere that you can't really see, but i can feel a little unevenness, and then tosave myself trouble later, i'm actually going to start sanding here, and i've got some 220 wet-or-dry. i'm just going to cut myself... i like tocut these in half and then fold them into thirds to make them easier to workwith. so i've done a quick sanding just to takeoff the little pimples and kind of take down this ridge that i can feel. and just wiped it, wiped the dust off with a damp rag. i'm going to add now more filler.

i'm coming over more of this edge todeal with this ridge. so i've done a couple more passes justto get a good fill, and now i'm ready to sort of feather out into these areasthat need just a little bit of minor fill and also texturizing. so i'm goingto do one more quick round of sanding, rough it up, get off any little pimples, smooth it out. wipe it with a damp rag. let it dry. make sure it's not--if you do use ahair dryer--don't make it too hot before applying more compound. i'm going to get pretty aggressive here and just go big, up into these little regions.

the vast majority of it i will remove with my business card and sort of feather out. that's a really nice spread, but then tokeep... you get these little lines in there from the card or just, you know, itwill be too smooth if you don't texturize it. and i love to work with just a food handlers' glove and sort of emboss the compound. and where you've got it on thicker, you'll see that it's a little more pronounced. just kind of rework that. you can always sand it down later. and allow to cure. alright, so this dried very quickly with a lamp, maybe 10 minutes.

and this feels great. it's a little rough, so i'm going to do a little sanding. i'm going to start with some 500 wet-or-dry. you don't want to sand off all thetexture you put on there, just to get off the rough spots. it still feels a little roughover here. this could probably use a second pass, but for the purposes of this video, i'm just going to quickly demonstrate justto see what it looks like when you dye it up. even if it feels great, you dye it, andsometimes it doesn't necessarily look great. so we're going to color change to rustusing our rub 'n restoreâ®.

i've got myself a damp sponge, sloppingit on. so if you want to go back later andrework your repair, you certainly can do that. you can let the dye dry and thenremove some of it with some 409â® or fliteâ® cleaner and a rag. you don't haveto strip it all out, just get, like you know, whatever comes off easily. removethat, let it dry, and rework your repair. the proof in the pudding is how... iswhat it looks like when dyed. i'm going to dry this. you can see the area where i hacked open looks great, and it feels great too. it's really strong, thanks to thesubpatch.

this area still looks kind of rough and scaly. i might do a little more sanding and doanother pass of compound and texturize again, keep reworking it if i'm picky, butthis is a radical improvement.

Home Remedies To Stop Cats From Scratching Furniture

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