Home Furniture Beaumont Tx

eric: this video’s brought to you by sailrite. visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies,tools, and instructions. a wire hung canopy is a great idea. they can provide adjustable shade to makeyour outdoor living area comfortable, even on the hottest of sunny days. want one for your outdoor living area? watch this video tutorial and we’ll showyou how to sew it up and install it yourself. almost all of the materials and tools to doit can be found at sailrite. save some money and do it yourself with helpfrom sailrite.

i’m eric grant from sailrite, and i’llbe walking you through the process. first step, measuring your structure. hi, i’m eric grant with sailrite, and we’reunderneath a pergola that i built last year. but as you can see, there is a lot of directsunlight and it makes this environment not as enjoyable. so what we’re going to do in this videois show you how to build a wire hung canopy. it’s a canopy system that will retract andalso cover this area so that the sun is not so intense. it’s an easy project that you can do yourselffollowing this video tutorial.

so let’s get started and show you how tobuild a wire hung canopy. first off, we’re going to take some measurementsof the pergola. we’ll be using sailrite’s wire hung canopycalculator. only two measurements are needed to determinehow the wire hung canopy panels will work on your structure. that’s the structure’s width and length. here we are measuring the structure’s width. this is the area where we want the first andlast panel of fabric to stop along the long edges of the panel.

notice it’s up against the main beam ofour structure where the eye bolts will be screwed in. the second measurement is the length of thestructure. this measurement will help us determine thelength of each canopy panel. this measurement is from one main beam tothe other main beam. our structure is 143” in length. however, we need to take into considerationthe length of each eye bolt. ours measure 1-1/8”. each span will include two eye bolts.

we need to subtract the eye’s length fromour length measurement. so our eye’s length is 1.12” times 2 (sincewe have 2 of them) equals 2.25”. so we’ll take the length measurement andsubtract 2.25” from it and we’ll enter that total into our calculator for the lengthmeasurement. our structure’s width is 162”. our length is 140.75”. and we will pick a 54” wide fabric. we have entered those measurements into ourcalculator and it gives us every detail we need to make our panels, and also what supplieswe need to order for our particular size application

including the quantities of items. according to the calculator for our canopies,each panel will be 52” wide here. when you’re entering your figures for yourstructure in the wire hung canopy calculator, sometimes fudging the width will make a differencein how many panels are required for your structure. for instance, for this structure, i entered162” for our width this direction. now if i enter 163”, all of a sudden i need4 panels instead of 3. when i go to 4 panels that will increase thecost of the hardware that i have to buy and also the amount of fabric that’s required. thus costing me more money.

so sometimes by making an adjustment to thewidth will make a big difference in how much money you have to spend. with that said, that also comes into playwith the width of fabric that you select. for instance, if you choose a sunbrella marinegrade fabric in a 46” width, you may have to make more panels. thus costing you more money. however, if you choose a 60” width, youmay save a lot of money because you’ll probably not need as many panels. now i love using two types of fabric for wirehung canopies, and that’s sunbrella marine

grade fabric and phifertex plus. for this project, we’re going to be usingphifertex plus and it’s a 54” width fabric. using the measurements i have, i only need3 panels so it’ll save me some money. now that our structure and calculations aredone, it’s time to mark and install the eye bolts. the â½â€ emt that we’re using needs tobe cut to size. our panel width is 52”. we are only going to cut one pipe eric: this video’s brought to you by sailrite.visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies,

tools, and instructions. a wire hung canopyis a great idea. they can provide adjustable shade to make your outdoor living area comfortable,even on the hottest of sunny days. want one for your outdoor living area? watch this videotutorial and we’ll show you how to sew it up and install it yourself. almost all ofthe materials and tools to do it can be found at sailrite. save some money and do it yourselfwith help from sailrite. i’m eric grant from sailrite, and i’ll be walking you throughthe process. first step, measuring your structure. as enjoyable. so what we’re going to doin this video is show you how to build a wire hung canopy. it’s a canopy system that willretract and also cover this area so that the sun is not so intense. it’s an easy projectthat you can do yourself following this video

tutorial. so let’s get started and showyou how to build a wire hung canopy. first off, we’re going to take some measurementsof the pergola. we’ll be using sailrite’s wire hung canopycalculator. only two measurements are needed to determine how the wire hung canopy panelswill work on your structure. that’s the structure’s width and length. here we aremeasuring the structure’s width. this is the area where we want the first and lastpanel of fabric to stop along the long edges of the panel. notice it’s up against themain beam of our structure where the eye bolts will be screwed in. the second measurementis the length of the structure. this measurement will help us determine the length of eachcanopy panel. this measurement is from one

main beam to the other main beam. our structureis 143” in length. however, we need to take into consideration the length of each eyebolt. ours measure 1-1/8”. each span will include two eye bolts. we need to subtractthe eye’s length from our length measurement. so our eye’s length is 1.12” times 2 (sincewe have 2 of them) equals 2.25”. so we’ll take the length measurement and subtract 2.25”from it and we’ll enter that total into our calculator for the length measurement.our structure’s width is 162”. our length is 140.75”. and we will pick a 54” widefabric. we have entered those measurements into our calculator and it gives us everydetail we need to make our panels, and also what supplies we need to order for our particularsize application including the quantities

of items. according to the calculator forour canopies, each panel will be 52” wide here. for instance, for this structure, i entered162” for our width this direction. now if i enter 163”, all of a sudden i need 4 panelsinstead of 3. when i go to 4 panels that will increase the cost of the hardware that i haveto buy and also the amount of fabric that’s required. thus costing me more money. so sometimesby making an adjustment to the width will make a big difference in how much money youhave to spend. with that said, that also comes into play with the width of fabric that youselect. for instance, if you choose a sunbrella marine grade fabric in a 46” width, youmay have to make more panels. thus costing

you more money. however, if you choose a 60”width, you may save a lot of money because you’ll probably not need as many panels.now i love using two types of fabric for wire hung canopies, and that’s sunbrella marinegrade fabric and phifertex plus. for this project, we’re going to be using phifertexplus and it’s a 54” width fabric. using the measurements i have, i only need 3 panelsso it’ll save me some money. the â½â€ emt that we’re using needs tobe cut to size. our panel width is 52”. we are only going to cut one pipe at thistime. the others will be cut later on. we’ll be using this pipe to help us mark our structurefor the installation of the hardware and wire cables that needs to be installed on our pergola.the â½â€ emt conduit cuts easily with a hacksaw,

as seen here. we will cut the other pipeslater on. we only need one for now. we’ve cut a â½â€ emt pipe to the widthof each of our panels. for us it’s 52”. now we’ve already installed the eyes. thisis a prelude to your installation of the eyes because i like to use the â½â€ emt as myreference for all of the eyes down the entire sides of the pergola. so when i put it uphere, what i need to do is, because i’m using an eye bolt with a nut and washer, ineed to make sure that i’m not going to run it into any hardware that’ll make itimpossible for me to use a nut and washer on the backend. so what i determined for usis that we want this hardware to be installed about 8” from the end to avoid any obstacleslike this post or this post here. that puts

our pergola right here- the finished fabric-and right here. so i’ll mark, which i’ve already done, here where this eye bolt willgo. then i’ll mark here where this eye bolt goes. obviously those would be centered betweenthis area. then i’d use that as a reference for all other areas. now in between each panel,from this end where the fabric stops, we want at least 3”. we don’t want the panelsto be any closer than approximately 3”. so from here i’ll mark 3” and then i’llput my pipe right there on the next run and mark where this hardware goes. the reasoni have the 3” between each of the panels is i don’t want them hitting each otherwhen there’s a strong wind. so usually at least 3” is usually a safe factor to makesure we aren’t going to have panels blowing

against each other back and forth. here are some general guidelines you may wantto go over. now let’s show installing the eye bolts. using that pipe we cut, we willmark the beam with a pencil where we want each panel to start and where the eye bolt,which holds the wire, should be installed. each run of wire should be between 3"-8”inside the edge of each panel, as we discussed earlier. my two sons are helping. their namesare silas and seth. the end of the panel should also be marked. now that panel’s hardwarelocation is identified on our structure. next we will measure over about 3” from the endwhere the first panel’s edge stops. we did not show it on this run, but we will be measuringdown 2” from the top of the beam using a

square soon. we will do this to make surethe hardware is horizontal in line with the top of our structure’s beam. now followthat same procedure down the width of your structure for each of the panels. be sureto start about 3” from the last panel’s edge location. here we’ll show using a squareto measure down approximately 2” from the top of our beam and mark where every one ofthe eye bolts need to be installed with an x or a + to indicate where we need to drill.our structure has 3 panels so we’ll do this yet one more time. then we will repeat thatsame procedure for the other side of our structure. we will not show that. where each eye boltshould be secured, we will drill through the wood frame using a 5/16” drill bit becauseour eye bolt has a 5/16” threaded post and

the washer and the nut will be used to secureit firmly in place on our wood beam. we are using a high quality stainless steel eye boltwith nut and washers from sailrite. true, you could save money and buy eye bolts thatare zinc plated from a hardware store, but they do not hold up to the weather very well;they rust. for a high working load limit, they usually are rather large. our eye boltshave a working load of about 1,000 lbs and a breaking load of 3,968 lbs. on the backside,the washer and nut that comes with our eye bolt is securely tightened in place. use ascrewdriver in the eye to keep the eye vertical as the nut is tightened. repeat this processfor every location where an eye bolt needs to be secured to the beam, on this side andon the other. after seth and silas have all

the eye bolts installed, next up we need toinstall the wire rope. this is a swedge tool to install nicopresssleeves. this is a turnbuckle that we have for each one of our canopies, or panels. sowhat we need to do is we need to take the nicopress sleeve and install it onto the endof the cable on one side, run the cable through the eye (give yourself plenty and it’s easierto work with), then run the end of the cable through the opposite side of the nicopresssleeve. once it’s through the sleeve, we’ll leave a little bit of a tail hanging out.now we want to close up the eye, and to do that, you want to pull on this side; not theside that only has a little bit hanging through. there’s no magic rule to the size of theeye, but i like to have it fairly small so

it doesn’t look so large. now we’ll takeour swedge tool and we’ll take out this one nut on the end. that will allow us toput the wire in between here and then put the nicopress sleeve between that other portion.what we want to do is we want to create 3 presses on this nicopress sleeve. so the firstpress will be very close to the end, as you can see here in that concave area. so nowwe’ll tighten down the screw so that it bites down on that and we’ll tighten themfairly evenly. obviously this one’s looser than the other. we’ll use a â½â€ closedwrench to do this job until i feel a little bit of pressure and then i’ll check to seewhere my nicopress sleeve is positioned. do the other one. now i definitely have plentyof pressure down that it’s going to hold

it in place. it looks good and the eye lookslike the right size. so now we’re going to continue just to press it down firmly untilthese ends basically clamp down on the opposite end of the tool. this is an awesome device.it does a beautiful job of pressing a nicopress sleeve. that side’s down completely, thatside and that side is down. so our nicopress is pressed once. now we just have to do thatin the center location and then on the end. once you release these nuts, you’ll findthey quite easily reverse out. you can see how it’s crimped it there. it’s a beautifulcrimp job. now we’ll put it back in in about the middle position. so notice now we’vecrimped this one end. now we’re crimping in the center position, and it’s positionedjust about perfectly. i hope you can see that.

do the same procedure. there we are- downon that side and down on that side. now i can release them with just a ⽠turn or a⼠turn and they’ll reverse out to the point where i can reposition the nicopress sleeveyet again. there’s what it looks like. beautiful crimp job! last crimp near the end. woo done!you know what? i’m going to get a drill and a socket and do the last one with thatand show you how easy it is with that because that’s a lot of twisting. now i need torelease this screw completely to get the wire out or run the wire all the way through, whichi do not want to do. that screw is released. this one needs to be released enough thati can open the jaw. take a look at that. that thing is not going anywhere.we’re going to be going in this eye bolt

to the next eye bolt on the other side, throughthe other eye bolt, and then back through this eye bolt with the turnbuckle in the center.so i’m going to start the end that doesn’t have the turnbuckle through the eye here andthen feed all this cable through this. i’m going to let this hang here; it’s not goingto go through there. then i’m going to go to the other side with my ladder and stringthat up. so we’re going to go in from this side over to this side. then, while we’redoing this, you might as well go through this last one and pull it through. when you start stringing this wire rope, ifit gets next to your head, it does a good job of pulling a single hair out of your scalp.lol

alright, we got through that side and nowi’m back over here. here we are. we go through here, feed the excess through. as you can see, each rectangle of wire willhold up one panel. now what we want to do is we want to takethis turnbuckle almost to the very end of its travel so we have plenty to make adjustmentswith. right about there, and we want to do the same thing with this one. it’s a windyday out here today! right there. now we have the maximum amount for adjustment. now we’lltake our cable and we’ll pull it taut. with this pulled taut on both sides, we need tofigure out where we need to cut the cable. now we don’t want to cut it clear over here;that would be too much cable. so we’re actually

going to go to the end of the eye, and thenbasically about 1”-1 â½â€ past the eye. i think i’m going to do it right about thereand that’s where i will create my cut so that i have plenty to tension it to make thewire taut. so right here is where i will cut. alright, i’ve got my dremel tool with aheavy cutting wheel on it, and this is our point where we need to cut it. i’ve gotmy safety goggles on. that cuts it very nicely. now if you have a heavy duty wire cutter,you can use that as well. but most people don’t have a heavy duty wire cutter that’llcut wire as cleanly as a dremel tool and a cutting wheel. now i have to hold on to thiswhere i either feed it through maybe again and around itself; that may hold it there.what i want to do now is i want to take this

into the turnbuckle out because i don’twant to have to be fighting all this hardware. so i’m just going to unscrew it completely.let this side hang. now i need to make sure that it’s goingthrough and fed appropriately. i’m going to put my tools on top of the pergola up hereand my nicopress sleeve, and this time i’m going to use some power. put that up theretoo. oh look, i’ve got a wrench up here! all kinds of goodies. okay so now we’llgo back to this. before i feed it through the eye, i have to put the nicopress sleeveon, which i forgot to do. nicopress sleeve through the eye through the nicopress sleeve.because that end was cut with a dremel tool, it went through a lot easier than the otherend that was cut with wire cutters. this time

i’m going to use a power tool and i’llshow you that. so let me get it set up and then i’ll show you that next. see how ihave it positioned again? now i’ll see how it works with a power drill. i’ve neverdone it this way. this is a â½â€ socket. ooooo nice! look how fast it’s going! it’salready down. hahaha, i think i learned a lesson here. now what we need to do is releaseit a little bit. alright i don’t think i need to show any more of this. you’ve gotthe idea of how to do this. we’ll show you what to do after we get this nicopress sleeveall the way compressed three times. i’m going to release this almost to thepoint where it’s falling off because we want to tighten them about the same rate.so they are just getting ready to fall off.

now we’re going to take this side and we’regoing to connect it. there we go. now what we want to do is we want to turn this centerwithout these eye bolts turning. we don’t want to untwist the wire rope. so i’ll puta screwdriver in this eye, which will keep it from turning. then i will turn the centerhere and hold this eye by hand. so the cable is staying true and the center of the turnbuckleis the only thing twisting to tension our cable. we’ve got already some pretty goodtension on and we have a huge amount of adjustment. exactly what we want. now we want this tobe very taut. hopefully you’re structure is capable of holding all this pressure. ifyou’re putting this on a weak structure, it’s probably not a good idea. my arm’sprobably going to get in the way here, but

you get the general idea. we want this taut.love that sound! that’s the sound i’m going for. there’s going to be quite a bitof weight on this cable, but we don’t want to pull down our structure either. so i’mgoing to keep it there, and then i’m going to take these nuts and bring them up on thecenter piece. then i use my wrench and tighten up the nuts. we’ll follow that same procedure for everyone of the panels for the canopy. the wire runners are installed on our structure. it’snow time to cut the fabric and sew it up. you may be asking yourself, “how in theworld are you going to sew large panels inside your home? it’s not like we have a loftavailable for us.” but it’s really not

that hard. all you need is a dining room table.i’m going to show you how easy it is. come on inside.we have to lay out our fabric on the floor so we can measure it and cut it to the appropriatelength for our panel. we are doing that on our living room floor here. to determine thelength, we’ll use the cut fabric length on the calculator. we’ll mark that lengthwith a pencil. then we’ll use a square and strike a straight line down the length ofour fabric. to extend the length of the square, we’ll use a yardstick that is laid overthe square by about 6” or 7”, and then we’ll continue to strike a line down thelength, or i should say width, of our fabric. since we’re using a phifertex plus meshfabric, we can cut it with scissors. if you’re

using sunbrella marine grade fabric, you maywant to cut it with a hotknife to help prevent the unravelling of the fabric. we’ve got all this fabric here. this isabout 177” approximately of fabric. it’s 54” wide. we’re using a phifertex plus.okay, so we need to get started. how are we going to do it? i’ve cleared this area ofall the chairs and all i have is one chair for my sewing machine, and the rest of myarea is my workspace. so this is all that’s needed. so what i’m going to do is i’mgoing to take my fabric and i’m going to throw the majority on the floor. this endthat we’ve cut straight already with using a square, we’ll lay it on the table. you’llneed to cut your panel to the right width.

we’re using a 54” fabric and we want ourpanel to be 52” when it’s finished. we want to create a single hem on both long edgesof the fabric. so for us, we don’t need to cut the fabric to size because we’regoing to fold it in 1” on one side, fold it in 1” on the other resulting in 52”.we’re going to use a sailrite canvas pattering ruler to create this hem. first off we’regoing to measure, mark our fabric with a pencil or a soapstone pencil or either a grease pencil,and then we’ll fold it to those lines we’ll create. so that’s what we’re going todo now. so we’re going to create a 1” hem, andon this ruler there’s a hole at 2”. so we’re going to create a line 2” from theedge. line’s kind of hard to see because

the fabric doesn’t mark very well, but itwill be visible enough that we can actually create our single hem. so we’ll be foldingthe edge of our fabric to that line. so we’ve done it for a small portion of the fabrichere. now we’re going to go to the other side and do the same thing. notice the edge of the sailrite canvas patterningruler has a metal piece that helps to guide the ruler up against the raw edge of the fabric. now that we have that marked, we’ll movethe fabric now to where we stopped marking- right here- and we’ll use our sailrite canvaspatterning ruler, yet again, to strike another line that will be 2” from the edge of thefabric. if you don’t have the sailrite canvas

patterning ruler, you can do it with a yardstick.we’re going to show you that next. okay, we’ve got it marked from there tothere at the edge of our table. we’ll just continue to move the fabric to the next partthat we need to mark. now we’re going to use a yardstick and just place a line 2”from the edge on the fabric at a couple locations. then we’ll strike a line with it. if you need to cut the fabric’s width downto size- that was not required for us- you would mark a line for cutting in the samemanner as seen here. then you would strike a 2” line in from that cut edge for a 1”hem. we’ll just keep doing that all the way downthe length of the fabric.

we’re going back to the sailrite canvaspatterning ruler. we believe it’s easier. we’ll be using seamstick for canvas forthe single hems along the long edges of each of our panels. this double sided tape willbaste the hem in place so we can take it to the sewing machine and sew it. now there areonly a few spots on each panel that we’ll use this double sided tape, and that is thetwo long edges and also the short sides. when we create our sleeves, we don’t want touse double sided tape. there we’ll either pin or staple. here’s our 2” line thatwe struck down. the fabric will be folded over to that 2” line. we’re going to placeour â¼â€ seamstick for canvas about a â¼â€ away from the edge of the fabric. our stitchwill go right here. since we’re using a

ptfe thread, which is a lifetime guaranteedthread that never rots and colors stay true and chemicals don’t affect it, it will lastthe lifetime of the fabric. if we were to sew into the actual seamstick, you may havea little bit more issues with the ptfe thread. that doesn’t mean you can’t sew into thedouble sided seamstick, but avoiding the seamstick will make it more capable of sewing withoutskipped stitches. so that’s why i’m backing the seamstick off. notice that as i’m doingthis i’m moving our panel on our small table so that i can baste down approximately a 3foot section at a time easily. i don’t need a huge workspace like we talked about earlier.so now we’re on the other side and we’re doing the same procedure again. we’re comingto the end and what we’ll do is we’ll

go all the way to the end, and then you canuse scissors to break it, or scissors to cut it (i’m sorry), or you can hold your fingeron it and rip it like that. i like doing it like that because as you can see, it lefta little bit of the glue exposed. so now all you have to do is just grab the transfer paperhere and pull it up and that reveals the glue. i’ll pull up about 2 foot of it and theni will baste the edge of the fabric over to that line we struck down earlier. you cancrease it with your hand, but why do that when you have the sailrite canvas patterningruler? do this with the metal end and it is creased and bonded beautifully. you can’tget a better crease than using the sailrite canvas patterning ruler. we’re going tocontinue doing this entire side and then we’ll

move to the next side after we’re done withthis. move the fabric down to where we peeled up the tape, pull back some more tape, andthen baste it first right to your line that you struck down. this gives you a perfect1” hem. as we discussed earlier, phifertex fabriccan be cut with scissors without having to worry about unraveling. right to there. you can either do it withyour hand, but we’ll use the sailrite canvas patterning ruler. if using a sunbrella marine grade or awninggrade fabric, and you do not have to cut it to size along the selvage edge, those edgesare factory sealed and typically they do not

unravel. however, if sunbrella fabric hasto be cut to size, we recommend using a hotknife to help prevent the unravelling. here we areon the opposite side. peel off our transfer paper revealing theglue, baste to the line. oops! a little too far in. the nice thing about double sidedtape, you just pull it up and reapply. now that we have the two hems basted, we needto confirm our measurements before we sew them. so it’s always a good idea to do this.we’re going for 52”. yours may be different. we’re a smidge over 52”, which is perfect.you don’t have to be exact on this thing. we’re ready to sew our hems in place.alright, we’re going to take our fabric and get it ready for sewing. there’s a lotof fabric here. we’re going to start with

one side; it doesn’t matter which side.we’re going to sew it with the hem up. here’s our front edge, and we’ll put her in themachine and get started. we’re going to position our magnetic guide here on the sailriteultrafeed lsz sewing machine so that we get our stitch about 1/8” away from our rawedge. so right about there and that’s perfect. so now i’m going to do some sewing hereabout 1”, and then i’m going to put the machine in reverse with this lever. that locksthe stitch in place. now we’re going to sew down the length of our hem. i’m goingto bury the needle through the thickest part of the shaft, as you can see there. i rotatedthe balance wheel around by hand to do that. now that’s going to keep my fabric rightwhere i want it, and then i’m going to adjust

my fabric. but before we do that, we needto look at our stitch on the backside to make sure it looks good. before we stitch too far,we should always lift up our fabric and inspect the stitch on the bottom side to make sureit looks good. we don’t want too much tension, and we don’t want too little tension. ifthere’s too little tension on the backside, you’ll see loops or loose thread. here itlooks excellent so i think we’re in good shape.we’ve got our needle buried in our fabric right at the beginning of our hem. it’snot a bad idea to take your fabric and actually kind of stretch it out in an excess room ifyou have it. it doesn’t have to be perfectly flat, but the flatter you make it, the easierit is going to be to sew it. now if you don’t

have a lot of room, you can gently roll thefabric so that it folds right where you’re working and it will feed easier into the sewingmachine. we’re ready to sew. now you can see that this magnetic fence actslike a fence on a table saw. you just basically keep the fabric edge up against it and yourstitch stays nice and true. notice that when i’m sewing where my hands are. one hand’sover here guiding the fabric and the other hand is over here kind of helping to pushthe fabric. that keeps my fabric feeding where i want it to because you do have to stay incontrol of your fabric. it’s not going to feed it perfectly straight without your hands.so watch as i do this. my needle’s buried so i’m not going to lose my spot. i’llmove my hands. i’ll bury my needle if i

make adjustments to the fabric by rollingthe balance wheel by hand and move my hands yet again. hands go down, hand over in fronthere, sewing about a foot and half to two foot, keeping the fabric up against the magneticguide. now is probably a good time to talk aboutprofilen thread and polyester thread. we’re using a ptfe thread called profilen. a profilenthread is a lifetime guaranteed thread and it will not rot and chemicals do not affectit. so if you’re in a tropical environment- say california or florida or even the caribbeanor any place like that- using a ptfe thread like profilen is a phenomenal idea and highlyrecommended. if you’re not in a tropical environment like here in indiana, the weatheris kind of mild and the sun is not so intense,

you could get away with a v-92 polyester thread.a polyester thread in a mild climate like this will last anywhere from 3-8 years. ina very high intense uv climate, like in the caribbean, the polyester thread may only lasta year, 2 years, maybe 3 years and that’s it. so you may want to choose a ptfe threadlike profilen. a ptfe thread is more difficult to sew with. you may get a few skipped stitches.there are some things you can do to tweak the sewing machine so that it sews a littlebit better like using a smaller needle. since the thread is a little bit slippery and italso kinks slightly, using a smaller needle will sometimes cause the thread to bind betterin the hole that the needle creates. when the needle exists the hole, a better loopis formed for the hook to catch. let’s get

started sewing again. can this type of fabric be sewn with a regularhome sewing machine? to help determine that fact, you can cut up a pair of old blue jeans,not including the jeans hems. then stack about 4 or 5 layers on top of itself, and then sewit with a heavy thread. chances are, if the stitch looks good on the top side and thebottom side, you can sew phifertex and sunbrella with your home sewing machine. if not, considerbuying sailrite’s ultrafeed sewing machine. check them out at www.sailrite.com. alright, we have the two long edges hemmedwith a single 1” hem and they are now sewn. so we’re going to turn our attention toone of the short ends. first off, we have

to make sure that it’s at a 90 degree angleto the edges. so we’ll need a square. okay, we’ll use this square and our sides arestraight. as you can see, we’re a little bit off here so we’re going to strike aline here along the fabric. to prolong the square, we’ll put this yardstick about 6”or 7” on this and that prolongs our line. so now we’ll strike a line on this. thenwe’ll cut along that line. now we’ll strike a 1” line all along the edge of the fabricso that we can create a â½â€ hem. this is the one edge that can be basted along withthe long edges. so this basting tape will allow us to baste this â½â€ hem in placeso we can take it to the sewing machine and sew it and not have to worry about creatingit while we’re sewing. we’re just folding

the edge of the fabric up to that line thatwe just struck on, creating our â½â€ hem. now we can take it to the sewing machine andsew, which is probably not a bad idea. or if you crease it really well, you can actuallyjust not sew it and sew it in the next step. it’s creased well, it’s basted down. weshould probably check it with our square to make sure that it’s perfectly square. thatlooks really good, and that too looks good too. it’s very important to get an edgethat’s square because every single sleeve that’s created down the length of your panelneeds to be straight. if you start with a crooked edge then every single sleeve willbe crooked down the entire length. next, along that â½â€ hem along the fold,we’re going to strike a line that is 3”

from the folded edge. we’re not going touse seamstick for this sleeve. we’re actually going to use a stapler and staple the fabricin place. you could also use t-pins. if you were to use seamstick, the glue or residuemay be in your sleeve when you’re trying to push your pipe through, and it may be difficult,if not impossible, to push it through. so we’re going to use a stapler; you couldalso use t-pins. we’re going to take this and we’re going to fold it to our line.then we’re going to crease little sections of about 1” at each one of those locations.this kind of just gives us a little bit of a guide so that we can crease the fabric completelyin the next step. once we have our preliminary scoring of the fabric done, we’ll go overit again and crease it so it has a very good

memory. once that’s done, we’ll take ourstapler and we will staple about half way in the middle of that about every 6”-8”.let’s confirm our sleeve by measuring it. it should equal about 1 3/8”- 1 â½â€ andit does. alright, we need to place our magnetic guide1-5/16” away from the needle. so what i’m going to do is i’m going to lower my needleby rotating the balance wheel to 1-5/16” and place it nearly on top of the yardstick.then i’m going to position…oops, 1-5/16” is right here! then i’m going to positionmy magnetic guide right up against the edge of the ruler. so now i have exactly 1-5/16”from the needle. then i can clear my ruler. my magnet’s set. now i’m going to takemy fabric where that first sleeve is created

and put it in the sewing machine and sew alongthat edge. we should be very close to that edge, as you can see, we are here in the video.do a little reversing at the end and just sew down this length. we’re keeping theedge up against the magnetic guide. that’s our guide. i’m kind of lifting the fabricas i sew here to kind of let the machine pull it in. so i’m guiding it here and over herei’m kind of lifting the fabric so it feeds nice and straight. now when we get to theend, we do some reversing and our first sleeve is created. next we’re going to pull outthese staples, and we’re just using a screw driver to pull them out. then we’ll usesome needle nose to pull it out. our first sleeve is created. now we need togo back to the calculator and confirm our

span. we’re using our iphone here to get to theinternet, and we have landed on the sailrite wire hung canopy calculator. this is whatwe use to calculate everything for our wire hung canopy. it says that each span for mycanopy will be 27.45”. that’s from sleeve to sleeve. yours may be different dependingon obviously your pergola, or your structure, that you’re applying these wire hung canopieson. here’s a snap shot of the calculator, andhere you can see each span will be 27.45” for our application. yours may be different. to make things easier, i like to take a permanentmarker and mark on my yardstick at my span

measurement. ours is 27.45”. so as you cansee, i’ve placed a black mark there. that way i always know exactly where i need tomark. we need to put our hems facing down against the table. so we’re going to rollour fabric around so that the hems are facing down. to do this, make sure the fabric underneaththe table- there’s a lot of it- is going the same direction. that’ll make it easierfor the creation of these sleeves. the main reason that i’m turning the hems so they’refacing the table is because i don’t want the hems to be up facing the sky. the ideahere is that if the hems are under, dirt can’t get caught on the edges of any of our hems.so when it fills with water, and if water comes to the sides, it doesn’t get caughtalong the edges of the hem. it basically rolls

over the sides. true you’re going to seethe hems from the underside, but if you’ve done a good job, they’ll still look great.now, is that a rule? not at all. it’s a preference. so if you’d like to have yourhems facing up at the sky, then simply make sure that you do this step with the hems facingaway from the table. it’s your choice. so now i’m going to place my yardstick rightat the edge of the fold and mark it our span distance, which we’ve marked on the yardstick.i’ll do this in 3 spots- center and the 2 sides. so that’s 3 spots. now we’llstrike a line connecting those marks. what we’re going to do now is we’re going tograb our fabric at our mark and we’re going to tuck the front portion under. at the line,we’re going to create a fold right at this

edge first. it doesn’t really matter whichside you do it on, but you just want to start it on a side. there’s our line. i’m goingto hold it with my finger right on the line. then i’m going to make sure the fabric isflat and the edges are lined up perfectly. that way i have a perfect 90 degree turn withthose 2 edges. you can see this edge is right on top of the other one. i’m going to takemy stapler and i’m going to staple about a foot and a half down from the fold and about2” in. there’s no magic number for that. we’re just trying to keep those 2 piecesof fabric directly on top of each other. then i’m going to follow that same procedurefor this side. i’ll find my mark, and i’ll fold right on that mark and hold the fabric.make sure the fabric’s laying flat and then

make sure the edges of the fabric are directlyon top of each other as best as possible. then i’ll staple the fabric in place. now,if we’ve done it right, all we have to do is just basically keep the fabric flat becauseour staples are holding it in place and create a memory creased edge along here. everythingis flat, edges are lined up, we have sort of a memory from my hand. now if you don’thave the sailrite canvas patterning ruler, you can crease it like this or you can useanother object- i’d probably use a screwdriver like this- and crease the edge like this.but as you can see, it’s well worth having the sailrite canvas patterning ruler to creasefabric. by far the easiest tool. i’m keeping the ruler from scratching the table by applyingthe pressure right up against the fabric.

but if you really like your table, you maywant to put something down sacrificial. i don’t really care that much for this tableanymore. it’s about 30 years old. with that done, we’re going to take our stapler andwe’re going to staple in approximately 1” about every 6”-8” again. this securesthe sleeve so when we take it to the sewing machine and sew, it doesn’t move aroundon us. there we go! next up, we sew it. so now we’ll take our panel to the sewingmachine. the magnetic guide is already set up for our 1-5/16” sleeve. so all we haveto do is keep the fabric up against that edge. there’s no reason to measure for this. aslong as the fabric is creased well and stays in place, you should be able to sew rightalong there. it’s always a good idea to

do some reversing at the beginning becausethat’s where the stress is going to be. when i reach the end, a little bit of reversing.our second sleeve is now created. now we’ll repeat that process all the way down the lengthof our panel until we reach the last sleeve. there we’ll do something special. we’llshow this one more time. don’t forget to pull the staples here atthe ends as well. if you sew through a staple, don’t be alarmed. just take your time andcarefully pull it out without hopefully ripping any of the stitches. if you do rip stitches,you can always go back over them again. we’ll now take our panel and we’ll measureover that amount again and strike a line. now take a look at this. this is pretty neat.if the fabric is laying with the sleeve going

this direction- now the sleeve may accidentallygo this way on the succeeding panels- but if it’s laying forward, you can see thatour mark is right on the edge. that’s exactly what it should be. so for every one of thesesleeves you create, if you’re measuring right, that mark should be right where theedge of that last sleeve is. with that sleeve done, what i’m going to do now is i’mgoing to grab it at that location, not grabbing the under-layer, and lift it up and push theother portion of the fabric away from me. now here is what i was talking about. if thesleeve is pushed that way, obviously our line won’t be there. but if our sleeve is pushedthis way on this succeeding one, when we do that one, the line will be right there. sothere’s how the sleeve should be pushed.

it doesn’t really matter, but it’s a confirmingaspect to show that you’re doing it right. so now again, we’re going to find this line.i’m going to crease it. i’m going to hold on the line. i’m going to pull that fabricover so that it’s directly on top of the other one so we have a perfectly straightedge. i’m going to go in about a foot and a half, 2” in and staple. do the same thingover here. this is a very easy project. a little time consuming, but very easy. fabric’son top of itself. staple. crease the fabric making sure everything is nice and flat. thenscore the fabric. once it has a good memory, we’ll staple about every 6”-8” about1” in. here we go again. one of the nice things about this projectand what makes it so easy is using one of

these great sewing machines. the sailriteultrafeed sewing machine is really the world’s best portable walking foot sewing machine.you won’t find anything better. we’re using the sailrite ultrafeed lsz-1. this isa straight stitch and zigzag sewing machine. sailrite also carries a red sewing machinecalled the sailrite ultrafeed ls-1. it’s a straight stitch only machine and it’sa little bit less money. you don’t need a zigzag stitch when you’re doing a projectlike this. follow that same procedure for all intermediatesleeves until the last one. we are on the last sleeve here. obviouslynear the very end of our fabric. so now we need to measure over our span length as wedid for all of the sleeves, or pockets if

you want to call them that, and we need toadd 2”. that’ll be used for our â½â€ hem, and also obviously the other side ofa pocket. so let’s first measure over our span. span for us again is right where wemarked on our yardstick. we’ll measure that at 3 spots and strike a line. now from thatspan line we just marked, we need to place another line that measures over 2” morefrom the first line, and we will put 3 marks on the fabric- one on each end and one inthe center. this is 2” down from that span line. then we’ll strike a new line thatdistance from the first line striking through the marks we just placed on the fabric. thiswill be our cut line, and we will cut this with scissors.

be sure to only cut through the top surfaceof fabric. if you have fabric underneath, don’t accidentally cut it. our hems are facing down. we’re going toactually flip this fabric so the hems face up and place double sided tape right at theedge of this fabric. so i’m placing the double sided tape right along the edge ofthe fabric. so i did not strike a line. i’m just going to remove the basting tape andthen i’m going to fold the fabric back to approximately a â½â€. i’m going to eyethis. i do a pretty good job eyeing things to make sure they aren’t creeping on me.if you’d like, you can strike a line on the fabric and follow that line. now i’lltake our sailrite canvas patterning ruler

and we’ll crease that â½â€ hem so it hasa good memory, and it stays basted nicely because of that. alright now we have thatâ½â€ hem. now we’ll find our line and we’ll fold directly on that line. i’m foldingby hand first to kind of give it a little bit of a crease there. i didn’t sew my hemin place because i just creased it well and it’s basted. if you’d like, you couldsew the hem so it doesn’t come undone, but i think it’s an extra step that’s notnecessary. so once it’s been creased with your fingers, we’ll crease it with a heavyobject so it has a memory that stays permanent, or more permanent, because i don’t thinkit’ll stay there forever. once that’s done, we’ll take our stapler and we’llstaple just like we did with all the other

sleeves. so that is our last sleeve. you cansee the â½â€ hem, the pocket, and the finished side here.the last sleeve has the magnetic guide in the right spot. we’re going to sew in ourhem and also the sleeve at the same time. as with any other sleeve, be sure to do somereversing at the beginning and the end to lock your stitch in place. then we’ll usethat guide to guide our fabric. beautiful! phifertex plus is a vinyl coated mesh fabric,and it does allow air to flow through the fabric. after a rain, water may sit on topof the fabric due to the natural water adhesion and cohesion factors that are normal in anysituation. however, since the fabric is a mesh, the water will eventually pass throughor dry out quickly due to the high breathability

of the mesh fabric. if you used a sunbrella marine grade fabric,those fabrics are water resistant and water will pool up, especially on each one of theseswags. so what we need to do is install a single spur grommet right in the center ofeach one of these areas. you’ll need to install a #2 spur grommet in the middle ofevery span. let me show you what i mean. this is a span- from sleeve to sleeve. the pipeshave not yet been installed. in the middle, you would fold this fabric so the tops areeven, and this is the middle of the span right here. either measure it or fold it in halfthis direction and there’s your middle here. so you could crease it kind of with your fingersif you’d like. there’s the middle mark.

and then if you’d like, you can fold ithere…bingo! right there. you’d install a #2 spur grommet. being sure that you onlygo through one layer of fabric. if you’re using sunbrella marine grade fabric,you need to install a grommet between each span. here we’ve marked the center of thisgrommet on the sunbrella fabric. this is just a sample piece to show you how it’s done.you can use a razor blade and cut an x and then insert the male portion of the grommetthrough the hole that the x creates. this is not as clean of a system as using a holecutter, which we will show next, but it does work. if you’d like, you can cut out thetriangle of the x with scissors. that will make it a little bit cleaner. once you getthe male portion through, put the female portion

with the spurs on top of that. then we’lluse the die set and we’ll use a heavy mallet and pound it until the grommet is set appropriatelyin the single layer of sunbrella fabric. now we’ll demonstrate using a #2 hole cutter,and we’re using the premium cutting block on the underside to prevent damage to thehole cutter. we use the mallet again to punch our hole, and this hole is very cleanly done.then we’ll use that #2 spur grommet again and insert the male portion through the hole.place the female portion on top of the single layer of sunbrella marine grade or awninggrade fabric. then use the die set and give it a few hard solid blows until the grommetis set appropriately in the fabric. again this is not necessary for phifertex or phifertexplus fabrics; only sunbrella.

oh, one more thing. that grommet needs togo in every single one of these swags to allow the water to escape. all of our panels, or canopies, are complete.up next, we need to prepare the pipes. mark it a little bit less than 52” becausewe want the pipe to be a little bit smaller than the pocket. the â½â€ emt conduit cuts easily with a hacksaw,as seen here. after all the pipes are cut to size, use a metal file and clean up theedges. there, most of the outside edges are niceand smooth now. so it’s ready to be used. in lieu of a hacksaw, we could use a tubingcutter.

i’ve got this vice out here. it’s notactually mounted to this plastic table, but my wife didn’t want me to do this insidefor fear of scratching up the house. i don’t blame her. i’m going to put a rag in here,and then tighten the vice to hold the â½â€ emt in place while i get ready to cut it.we can cut it with a hacksaw, as we showed earlier, or we can cut it with a pipe cutter.put it on the pipe, there’s our mark that we need to cut it at, and we’ll just putthe blade right by that mark, and then you just tighten this wheel as we spin the pipecutter. now if you take a look at the end of the pipe, you’ll notice it’s a prettyclean cut. so that’s what a pipe cutter does in lieu of a hacksaw. you might wantto still file the edges of this a little bit.

i’ve used â½â€ emt on a lot of awning projectson homes throughout the years, and i’ve not had any corrosion issues or rust issueson the outside. where i’ve cut it, i’ve had a little bit of rust. it’s not reallyany serious matter. but if you want to prevent rust from happening on the cut edges thatyou created, you can use a rust-oleum cold galvanized compound repair (basically spraypaint). after your pipe has been cut to size, which should be the width of your canopy,or the width of each of your panels, you need to determine where each one of the strap eyesare going to be positioned on the pipe. to do that, we need to go back out to the pergola,or the structure, that you’ve erected your wire on and measure the distance from onewire to the other. our canopy will go in here

approximately over to here. we need to measurefrom one side of the cable to the other to get a measurement. so i’m just going totake my tape measure and measure over to that, and as you can see this one is 36”. so that’swhere we’ll need to put our strap eyes. i advise doing the drilling of the pipe outsideon a surface that you don’t care about ruining- a sacrificial surface. thus, the plastic table.alright, we know that we have the wire spaced at 36” for our project; yours may be different.we know that our sleeves, as far as the width goes, are 52”. so 52-36= 16. divide thatby 2 and that’s 8”. so we should be able to find the 36 center for our pipes at 8”from each end. so let’s do that now. if you look at the â½â€ emt pipe, you’ll seea weld line that rides all the way up the

length of the pipe. if you look down the pipe,you’ll see that it’s perfectly straight right on top of the pipe. we will use thatas a reference to where we’re going to drill our holes so that the holes are always inthe same location on the top of the pipe. we want to mark this pipe on that weld. sowe’re going to measure 8” over and put a mark on that weld at 8” over. right there.then we’ll do the same to the other side. so there’s our weld point right there andthere’s 8” so you mark it right there on top of that. next what we’ll do is we’lltake this strap eye and place it on top of that mark right on top of that weld pointwith the mark in the center of the strap eye. so the strap eye is on our weld point, andthen we mark right in the center on both sides.

then we’ll do that same thing on the otherside. using a 1/8” drill bit, we will drill right on top of the weld at each one of thosemarks for the strap eye. we will not drill through the other side; only one side. there’sour weld mark so we now that it’s right in line with the pipe. now what we’ll dois we’ll take every single pipe that we have for our single panel and line it up sothe weld point is at the top. then we’ll take our marker and we will mark where theholes go so they’re directly across from the holes we just drilled. it’s a good ideato confirm that those holes are in the right spot by testing the holes you already drilled,and yep, they’re in the perfect spot, if you can see that in the video. so there’sone marked. now we’ll take a second one,

or a third one, i’m sorry. we’ll findthat weld point. there it is. we’ll line up the ends over here on this side becauseit has to be even, and then we’ll use those marks to mark directly across from those.we’ll do this on all ends of the pipe for every single one of them. then we’ll drillthrough those holes. there’s the weld point, lined up on the end, mark the holes. everyonce in a while, take your strap eye and confirm the holes are in the right spot. so thereyou can see all the holes are drilled on this side and also they’re all drilled over here.for our wire hung canopy, we have 6 spans for ours.that means we need 7 lengths of pipe for each panel. we have 3 panels so we have to do this2 more times. we’re not going to show that.

next step, we need to install the pipes andour hardware. we’re back inside now where the air conditioning’son. we already have all of our pipes drilled for this one panel with the 2 holes that arepredrilled at the appropriate spot. so we’re now ready to install them in our canopy. we’regoing to do one at a time, but the process for all of them is exactly the same. so afteri show you a couple, you should have this down pact. we’ll start with the first sleeve.which end should you start with? it doesn’t really matter. with the pipe centered alongthis first sleeve, making sure that the ends are even, usually the pipes are slightly smallerthan the panel, we will mark right on the fold directly across from those holes on thefabric. we’ll do that on this side and also

the other of this pocket. so i’ve not movedmy pipe. that’s important to make sure that the holes are going to be exactly in the rightspot when we’re done because we’re going to make holes in this. so i’ve got those2 positions marked on both sides. now i’m going to move the pipe out of the way andi’m going to use this cutting pad and put it underneath the fabric, making sure thati don’t have any extra fabric under there because we only want to go through the foldof the pocket. then i’m going to place my cutter so that it creates a half moon cutand use a hammer like that. right over top of those holes that we marked. i’m goingto do this same thing over here. there we go! the first sleeve has the â½â€ hem onit so it’ll be a little more difficult to

slide the pipe into it because of that â½â€sleeve. you might want to get a helper to help with this. it will be a little bit ofa tight fit. you can roll the pipe around to help it kind of push into the sleeve. therewe go. i’m not going to worry about where the holes are until i get almost to the otherend. so now i’m almost there. so now i’m going to try to find my holes. here they are.i’m going to try to keep those positioned so that when it goes through the sleeve they’llbe in line with these holes. so keep pushing it in. now the pipe is flush with this sideright here, but we’re not all the way in. so what i’m going to do is i’m going tograsp the fabric over here and kind of pull on the fabric, which you can see the pipecame out that end and i have a wrinkle here

in the middle. so what i can do now is i cankind of do that down the length and now the pipe is in all the way and i can push thefabric out to make it so that the pipe is now buried within our sleeve on both ends.now to find the holes, because they’re not quite visible yet here, i’m going to takea pair of needle nose pliers and grab my pipe and roll it around until i find those holes.there they are. i’m going to do that only on one side. so i’m going to line up theseholes, and i’ve used my needle nose pliers to do that over here by grabbing the pipe.now i can put my strap eye and my fixed snap eye onto that side. i’m using #8 self tappingscrews, or drilling screws, and i’m going to feed kind of hand put the screw in thereto kind of start it, and then drive it mostly

down; not all the way. then i’m going toput on my snap so that the snap is facing towards the inside, or the middle, of thecanopy, or panel. so the snap is facing that direction. then i’ll take a second screwand hand start it in that same hole and drive it into place. now i can position them downhard. that is now installed. now we’ll move to the other side and show this one more time.alright i’ve grabbed my pipe with my needle nose pliers, find the holes right there- they’relined up perfectly- and follow that same procedure yet again. snap goes on so that it opens towardsthe middle again, just like that. there we go. now if it’s done appropriately, theyshould be on top of the fold, which they are, and they should be fairly straight. that’sone sleeve done. this is the end. what i want

to do is i want to fold it so that i see thenext fold. so i’m going to fold the fabric back this way and you can see i’m workingwith another sleeve and it’s laying flat on the table with nothing underneath it. soi’m assured that i won’t go through another layer of fabric by mistake. i’ll grab thenext pipe, follow the same procedure. we’ll show this in double time. mark thefold with the pipe laying beside it at each hole location. then use a hole cutter righton that fold and create holes, as seen here in the video. here’s a helpful tip. here are the holesdirectly on top. once we get the pipe in, you can’t really tell where the bottom is.you could use a permanent marker and mark

a line so that you know that’s the bottomof the pipe, which will help you align the holes and find them. there’s the mark wemade on the bottom of the pipe so if i grab my needle nose and i roll it around to basicallywhere the seam is, that should be the top of the pipe. if you look at our holes theyare now showing. screw it part way down, put our fixed strap eye with the snap on towardsthe middle, next screw into position, and screw it down all the way- both screws.all of our sleeves have a pipe and also all the fittings attached. we’re now on thelast sleeve. this last sleeve, we want to install a strap eye in the middle of thissleeve so that we can attach our rope pulley system. so what i’ve done is i’ve measuredthe tubing already to the center location,

which for us is 26”. then i marked on theweld line that’s directly in line with the holes that we drilled for our regular snaps.so on that weld line, in the middle with that mark in the middle of the strap eye, i’mgoing to mark again for 2 more holes there and there. now i did this outside last timeto prevent damage to my tabletop, but my wife’s not home. so i’m going to use my cuttingpad and drill through it here on the table and be as careful as possible. so drillingholes right on top of that weld just like we did earlier. pipe’s centered,mark the folds just as we did previously, except for this time you’re going to markthe folds in the center as well. then you’re going to punch holes there along with thesides. now for the middle position, we don’t

need anything besides the strap eye. so forthe middle position on our last sleeve, we have just a single strap eye. then on theends we’ll install our regular strap eyes with the snap hooks. we haven’t done thatyet. as you can see, the process is easy. nextwe will hang the panels. you notice the panel’s on the ground andwe have our sleeve that has the strap eye in the middle on top. now get a helper hereto help with this. tabby would you grab that sleeve with the strap eye on it? there itis. you can see it right there. she’s going to hand it up to me. i’m going to get onmy ladder and then she’s going to continue just to help me to string it up. all we dois we take these hooks and we simply just

strap it over the wire on both sides. oncethat’s done, we’ll push this down because this is the end that goes towards the camera.i’ll grab my second sleeve, which you probably can’t see, and tabby’s helping me to holdthe fabric up and strap it on in the same manner. push it down. it is that simple. sothis is an easy thing to take down and put up. and our last sleeve. coming up next is the optional pulley andrope system chapter. this system will allow you to open and close the canopy panels viaa control line. this system is optional, but highly recommended. here you can see it working.one rope, or line, can control up to 3 canopy panels. if more than 3 panels are utilized,we recommend using a second control line.

if this pulley and rope system is not utilized,a webbing strap can be used so it can be opened by hand. let’s get started and show youhow to install the pulley and rope system. the cheek block here on this post is mountedapproximately at my chest level. there’s no right, rhyme, or reason why i did that.i just didn’t want little kids to mess with it. notice that the block is at the upperportion and the opening for the block is at the bottom. that way the line can run downand around and up. we’ve installed a bullet block here. this will be our control line,and then up here we installed a micro block, a double block, but you can see the strapeye was put in at an angle here. this is the micro double block that will control the 2lines that come down our post to our cheek

block down below here. in the middle of theseruns, or close to it, on the end where we’re going to have our line that controls the entirecanopy system, we want to install a micro double block, and i’ve installed it usinga strap eye and 2 stainless steel screws that i’ve screwed into the wood. also take noteof how the double micro block is installed. it’s installed so the lines go horizontalwith our structure. we’ll need to do this at each run on the side that has the controlline that comes down the post. we did not show it, but here you can see allof the double blocks installed on this side of our pergola, right in the center positionfor each one of the canopy panels. now on the end that does not have the controlline coming down the post, we need to install

a harken micro block single, and we’ll installthat so the block runs vertical, as seen here. now try to get the block as high as you possiblycan within a few inches of your wire cable. here we don’t have much space so we’reonly 1” or so above that. these blocks again should be centered between the span. oursis 36” so this is approximately 18”. now if you have something that’s in the way,an obstacle, feel free to move it to the side to avoid the obstacle. here we were fine.now we need to do that on every single span on this side with a single micro block. up next, we need to run the rope through theblocks, but first we’ll melt the end of the rope to keep it from unravelling. we recommenda braided dacron leechline from sailrite.

we have our line here and the first step isto tie off to our strap eye right here. so to do that i’m going to do a bowline. to teach the tying of a bowline is to imaginethe end of the rope is the rabbit, and where the knot will begin on the standing part,a tree trunk. first a loop is made near the end of the rope, which will act as the rabbit’shole. then the rabbit comes up the hole, goes round the tree, then back down the hole. thiscan be taught to children with the rhyme “up through the rabbit hole, round the big tree,down the rabbit hole, and off he goes.” now that this bowline knot is tied, we’lltake the remainder of the line and put it over top of our canopy as such like this.this is step one. step two is going to be

done over there. alright, we have the endof our line. we’re going to go through the top of this double block in that direction.then we’ll pull all of our line through. all of our line is through the block, andyou can see this line, if you look at that over there, it pulls our whole awning in thisdirection. that’s step 2. step 3 is over here. step 3- make sure that your line isabove this cable. so we’ll have to go above it here. then we’ll feed through the topportion of this block in this direction. then we’ll pull all the cable through. okay,we have all of our line pulled through, and as you can see, the cable, or the line orthe rope, is running above this hardware. that’s step 3. now step 4 is down below.and step 4- run the cable all through this

block. step 4 is done. now we’ll lead upto that block we were just at. step 5- through the backside, or underside, of this doubleblock, and pull the line through. now this line has to go above this hardware. so rightover here laying beside this other one. so i’m going to gather the line and throw itover that. so now i’m going to take all this line, i’m going to step up one moretime, and feed it over this cable. then i’ll ensure that it’s not twisted anywhere. asyou can see here, it’s nice and straight. i’m going to go underneath this. we’renot going to run through the block; we’re going to skip it. then i’m going to go overthis cable with this. then always check your line to make sure that it’s not kinked anywhere,or caught anywhere, and it’s not. so that’s

perfect. so we’ll continue to do this allthe way down the line. i’m going to take this cord and go over top of here throughhere. looks good. you don’t need to really worry about this, but i’m going to tuckit under there. i’m going to go through here. good, and we’ll keep going. throughthis one. we’ve got a nice straight run there. now we need to go through this block.that’s step 6. now we’ll take the end of the line and we’ll run it through thebottom of this double block and pull it all through. alright, that’s step 6. next isstep 7, which is at the opposite side of the pergola. the steps for this pulley and rope systemshown are for 3 canopy panel runs. the control

lines become more difficult to pull with eachadditional canopy panel. if more than 3 panels are needed, we recommend an additional pulleyand rope system be added. i’ve gathered the rope, or the leechline,and i’m going to go over the top of this awning, or panel. there you can see. now i’mgoing to drop it and move to that side. alright, step 7. we’re going to go through the topof this single block. we’re going to go through the bottom like this, and we’regoing to pull all the line through. that’s step 7. step 8 is to tie off to the awning.so on this side of our pergola we have the control line that’s coming down this post.so this is the control line side. we’re going to go to the other side and push allof our canopies, or panels, towards that side.

i’m going to use this rod to do that. upagainst the structure, up against the structure. alright, all of our panels are pushed up againstthe structure on the side that does not have a control line. now what we need to do iswe need to mark, we need to take this cable down here and we need to pull it taut withoutobviously pulling any of that canopy away from the structure. so we have all of ourline taut. i will take the line directly under here, i will take that with my hand and whati will do is i will mark that position with a twisty tie. so i’m going to take thisbread tie while it’s pulled fairly taut and twist it around the line. now i know thatmy hands are in the way. don’t worry about that. i’ll show you this when we’re done.okay, so my twisty tie is on the rope. notice

when i pull the line it’s right there. sothe line’s fairly taut. i’m not pulling so hard that i’m pulling away that canopy.now what i’m going to do is i’m going to pull this through the block so watch there.here is where i want my alpine butterfly knot. that’s what i’m going to do next. the butterfly loop, or alpine butterfly knot,is perhaps the easiest to remember how to tie correctly. start by simply making 2 twistsin the same direction to form the 2 loops. then wrap the outer loop around the standingpart and pull it through the hole of the inner loop. there we go. i’m going to make this knota little bit prettier here. my alpine knot’s

made right where i want it to be, nice andsecure. we’re going to show making the alpine butterflyknot one more time. make one turn then make a second turn, or twist. flip the loop overon top of the standing legs. then hold the cross in the center making a middle hole inthe center position. grasp the bottom of the outer loop and take the end back around theback and through the middle hole. that gives you your alpine butterfly knot. i’m going to remove this. now this knotis pretty big, but we should be able to get it through our block. so let’s try it. theblocks are not too small, and we’re using 1/8” line. there we go. now we’re on theunderside of the block. now i have to release

one of these screws with my drill. okay. sowe’ve got that screw out. this is going to be a little bit on the hard side to move.yeah, it moves pretty well. now we’re going to take our loop and we’re going to runit underneath the leg of that strap eye just like that. then we’re going to put our screwback in again. okay, good. now that’s step 8. now we take this line and feed it on theother side of our panel. our line is taut, and you’ll notice when i pull on this line,our knot is right where i want it, right at the bottom of that block. so now we’ll goto the other side of the pergola. alright step 9 is to take the end of the line…ow!and go through the top portion of this double block going that way. pull the line through.alright, now we’re going to go over this

cable. now make sure the cable, when you pullon it, there are no cross sections here. there’s a little cross section here, but it’s nota big deal. it’s not going to cause any friction issues. it’s just crossed oncethere. we’ll also go on the top of this cable. now step 10 is to go through this doubleblock through the bottom, and pull all the line through again. as you can see, when therope is pulled fairly taut, it’s a straight run all the way to this block. step 11 wehave to go all the way down to the end again. step 11- through the top of this block. besure not to go behind that cable, but instead go on top of it like that. now pull the linethrough. step 12- tie to the strap eye on the front of this panel. be sure that thecable, or the rope, is taut and then determine

where your alpine butterfly knot will go.we want it right underneath this block so right about…i’m going to put it rightabout there. yep, that should do it. so if my loop is there, i’ll be able to attachthat strap eye and it’ll be nice and taut. so now i’ll mark that location with my breadtwisty tie. so that location is marked where i want the loop to go. pull it through myblock being sure it doesn’t move so that i have access to make my alpine butterflyknot. now we’ll pull on this pulling this knot through the pulley. watch closely uphere. pulley is big enough that i can get it through without any effort. now i’vealready released one of the screws on this strap eye. so i’m going to twist the strapeye, put it under it, and then reinstall the

screw. there we go. next step #13- to thetop of this double block. our rope is getting smaller, and we don’t have any twists. wehave a single twist here, but it’s not a big deal as we talked about earlier. so nowwe come across and keep going that direction. i’m going to go over that and over this.there are no twists anywhere. #14 is through the bottom of this double block. good! #15-tie it off at the strap eye on our first panel that we started with. let’s go over there.#15- put the rope through the single pad eye making sure that you go on top of the wire.there’s where we want our bowline knot to be so when the rope is pulled taut, it’lltie to that strap eye. so i’m going to give myself about 12” of line and cut it becausewe have extra line that we included just to

be safe. then we’re going to use a lighter,a hotknife- this i’m using a small torch- to melt the end of the rope being sure thatyou don’t do that by any fabric. now that’s not going to come unraveled on us. now whatwe have to do is tie into the strap eye. okay, we cut our line one more time. there we go.that side’s already sealed. now we’re going to grab the side of the panel that i’mgoing to attach to the other side. we’ll be climbing up there and attaching it so it’slocked on that side. so we’ll do this with each panel. okay, we have our panels here.to lock our panels, we’re going to take this hook, unhook it from the cable, and hookit into there. same thing over here. unhook it from the cable, snap it in there. we’lldo that with all the other ones now. works

awesome! now we can control all 3 panels withone line. for some assurance to be sure that our system does not move in high winds, orif we want to make sure that it’s fully closed all the way to the ends, we can useone of these harken 471 micro carbo-cam cleats. we do not need to predrill holes. if you did,you could use the bottom portion of this cleat as a template to predrill holes. i preferto install the cleat close to the cheek block directly above from it, approximately 5”above it. i also prefer for the gate to open this direction. that allows me to force theline in by pulling down. i’m using a #8 stainless steel pan head screws. my lengthis about 1 â¼â€. now when i make adjustments, if i want the shades to stay all the way open,all the way at the other end, you just pull

it all the way back, and then i can simplydrop it in there and it will stay all the way to the end. our slide on wire hung canopies are now complete.our wire hung canopies are obviously installed on a pergola, but you can also attach thistype of canopy to a solid building. we typically call those free standing wire hung canopies.now that our project’s done, we have the shade even on those very sunny days to provideus with a very comfortable outdoor living space. coming up next is the materials listand the tools that we used, including some common household tools. we highly recommendthat you use the calculator that was designed for these wire hung canopies. it will tellyou exactly what materials to order and the

quantities from sailrite. with that said,here is a detailed list of all the materials and tools. you may want to pause the videohere to study these 3 pages of materials and tools. after using the calculator for theslide on wire hung canopies, you’ll know exactly what materials to order and the quantitiesof each for your particular application. if you have any questions, be sure to give usa call or email us at sailrite. this free video and the hundreds of other project videosthat are free are available from sailrite. it’s your loyal patronage to sailrite thatmakes these free videos available so thanks for your loyal support. i’m eric grant,and from all of us here at sailrite, thanks for watching.

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